|
Monopodial or Sympodial growth what is the difference?
|
|
 |
Monopodial Orchids have no pseudobulbs,
but produce new growth from the crown of the
plant, the roots can be particularly
adventitious,
it is not uncommon to have aerial roots at
regular intervals along the stem, particularly
on species such as vandas etc.
|
 |
Sympodial Orchids do have pseudobulbs which grow
on a rhyzome, which may be so short that the
bulbs appear attached to each other, or long
enough to put some inches between them,
repotting of these orchids regularly is
necessary because of the lateral growth pattern
|
|
|
What conditions do orchids
require?
|
 Generally,
to grow orchids successfully, you have to try to
reproduce the conditions in which the plant is
used to in nature, hybrids are more adaptable
than their parents, and will tolerate conditions
which are to some degree either side of those
best suited to their parents.
Orchids adapt to one of three zones or
temperature bands, relative to where they grow,
remember, that whilst an orchid may come from a
warm country, it may well grow at a high
elevation, and needs a temperature lower than
that which would normally associate with that
part of the world.
These zones are referred to as cool,
intermediate and warm, with normally a
temperature drop at night.
The bands can be defined generally as
follows:-
Cool growing.......48/55 deg f. winter
overnight......55/70 deg f. summer
day...........40/60% humidity Intermediate
.......58/62 deg f. winter overnight......85/90
deg f. summer day........... 45/65% humidity
Warm...................65/70 deg f. winter
overnight......90/95 deg f. summer
day............50/75% plus.
An idea of which temperature band the orchid
belongs to may be gleaned from the leaves, cool
growing plants by and large have thin leaves,
whilst those used to much warmth have thick
fleshy ones, there are of course as always
exceptions to this rule, so be wary.
A good maxim for suitable conditions would be:-
More heat + more light = more shade, more air,
more humidity, more water.
Less heat and light= less air, less shade, less
humidity, less water.
Of course in addition to providing a climate in
which they will be happy, the amount of sunlight
which falls onto the plant must also be
considered, in general terms, most orchids need
shade from direct sunlight, and good air
movement, just as we would if we had to stand in
one place for all of our life!
Shading of at least 60% will be needed during
the Spring and Summer, possibly even into Autumn
if the weather is clear and warm and of course
all year round in the tropics.
To much light results in sunburned leaves or at
least yellow (or dark red) and skinny foliage,
not enough light and the result is dark green
foliage and no flowers.
POTTING MIXES AND WATERING
See also our potting demonstration page
Before considering what the orchid books tell us
about potting mixes, and watering, consider what
will suit your needs also, if you are always
around to water as frequently as a very open mix
will demand during a hot period of weather, then
O.K. but if you cannot devote a daily regime of
care, then perhaps a more water retentive medium
may be better for the plants you are growing.
Most vandaceous orchids, some Phaleanopsis, and
some Dendrobiums can be grown quite easily in
wooden slatted baskets, without any compost at
all, but obviously, this culture demands daily
waterings.
Cymbidiums, and Cattleya varieties do well in a
mix of bark chippings, mixed with a little
perlite, and charcoal to keep it sweet.
Dendrobiums, Oncidiums, Odontoglossums,
Catasetums, and many other species will also be
happy in this mix, but when deciding whether or
not to use a large, medium or small variety of
bark chippings, consider the thickness of the
roots, if they are thick, then the largest
chippings will suit, if they are thin then a
fine mix would be best.
Paphiopedilums and Phragmipediums seem to do
better in a mix of rockwool, bark foam and a
little sphagnum moss with some perlite, (or at
least they do for us), and a pinch of dolomite
lime does not go amiss with some of the Chinese
species.
When watering, try always to use rainwater or
that produced by a reverse osmosis system unless
you are very sure about the quality of your
towns water supply; having remembered to use the
potting mix which suits your availability as
well as the need of the plant, you should water
when the plant has almost dried out, and the mix
is just slightly damp, this means inside the
pot, not on the surface, so if in doubt use a
wooden stick to test for moisture, stick it into
the mix, and if t here is water present, and the
stick has darkened considerably, then perhaps
the time to water has not arrived.
In most cases during the summer months watering
would take place every 4/5 days here in the UK
and perhaps only every 10/14 days in winter, or
even longer.
Always flush the pot through to get rid of any
excess salts which may have built up in the
medium due to feeding.
FEEDING
Orchids are notoriously week feeders, and a
solution of one quarter to half strength
fertiliser is all most plants will need, a
balanced 30/20/20 is best for plants potted in a
bark mix, as the bark will neutralise the
nitrogen, and a well balanced 20/20/20 mix for
most others.
AFTER FLOWERING
Remove any dead flowers and old flowers and
sheaths, but take care not to damage the
pseudobulb from which the inflorescence grew; in
the case of Phalaenopsis, the flower spike would
have grown from between the leaves on the plant
body, it should be cut back to within an inch of
where it appeared, or if you wish to flower the
plant sooner, and the flower spike is still
alive (perhaps an odd flower left on it) then
look for a small node or bump below where the
first flower appeared along it and trim just
above there, if you are in luck it will produce
a new spike from there and flower more quickly.
GROWING IN THE HOME ?
A good tip for cultivation in the home, stand
the pot on an upturned saucer, which either
rests on a gravel filled tray, or on another
larger saucer, and maintain a little water in
the latter, this will make the air around the
plant more buoyant and help with culture.
Generally speaking, intermediate to warm loving
plants do better in the home, but remember, if
you live in a cold environment..... as heaters
go off at night, the drop in temperature may be
too much for your plant.
|
|
If you
wish to find the correct spelling & description of an orchid
species click here
|
|
